I don't want to remember things afar. But close.

So I am always going to get better reception if I couple the antennae on my remotes by pointing my receivers and transmitter straight up.

If want to check focus, you need to take a few extra steps.  Just turning on the LCD and glancing at it won’t cut it.  The small screen makes everything look more in focus because it can’t show you all the pixels at once.  The reduced image size creates the illusion of a sharper image.

very long post, havent read in full

short distance = power & speed

does not address travel flash setups

when stopping action is not the goal, and a really high shutter speed is not required, then FP Sync can be very useful. In fact, Auto FP is excellent for shooting portraits in bright daylight. Then, you can use a shutter speed well above the normal sync of 1/250th coupled with a wide aperture to blur the background which greatly helps isolate the subject. I typically use camera A mode, ISO 100, FP Sync, f/ 2.8 and 1/1000th in bright shade, and I get a flash range of about 10-15 feet. If I am in really bright light, like on the beach, the shutter has to be around 1/1600th, and this reduces the range to about 8-10 feet which is still reasonable for portraits.

If a greater distance than 10 feet is needed in bright daylight, there is no choice except to use regular flash sync and accept the requisite smaller aperture. This happens frequently when shooting a party outdoors, where I typically shoot in camera S mode, regular flash sync, ISO 100, 1/250th, and f/7, and I get acceptable fill out to 20 to 30 feet or so.

So the camera shutter speed is not very important if the flash is the main light.
Now, if you are going to try to balance the flash with some ambient light, then the shutter speed in the camera will be important to freeze whatever is being lit by ambient light (background, other people, etc.)

the worst thing you can do is to stop shooting.

With the 5D, my rule of thumb was that up to ISO 800 I always used the same workflow regardless of the ISO. ACR for RAW conversion, working mostly in Lab, local contrast, CMYK shadows/highlights, selective sharpening on Luma channel in Lab, e.t.c. At ISO 1600 I had to be more careful and tone down the sharpening not to increase noise, and at ISO3200 I had to be a lot more careful. If I was very, VERY careful, with selective noise reduction and very careful selective sharpening, for some good light (but still low light) shots, I was able to get excellent ISO 6400 (ISO 1600 pushed 2 stops) with the 5D.

With the D3 the situation is better, by a stop or more. I feel like I can take an ISO3200 shot and apply my regular workflow and it still comes out looking great (no noise reduction at all). I took some ISO 6400 self-portraits and with no noise reduction and a toned-down workflow (sort of what I was doing before with ISO 1600 shots with 5D) they came out looking great. Only at ISO12800 I have to do the very careful post processing to get a good looking image. ISO12800 (ISO1600 pushed 3 stops) is pretty much useless on the 5D. The main difference is the color accuracy and color noise, high ISO shots with D3 still look great, with accurate colors and no annoying blotchy color noise. Now I can say that I am VERY impressed.

Are you going to be shooting in near-dark conditions without an AF illuminator on a regular basis?

you'll want the foreground to be in extremely sharp focus.

DOF Master app for iphone.

I have also had cards fail when the tiny metal connectors became corroded from the humidity in Southwest Florida, USA.

Humidity kills memory cards. And brand new cards have a slightly higher failure rate.

Assuming you have the Developer tab enabled, the Form Field Shading button
is one of the Legacy Forms tools in the Legacy Tools palette (in the
Controls group on the Developer tab).

SO THIS IS WHAT YOU WOULD ENTER IN THE URL BOX FOR 'GOOGLE.COM':

www.google.com/search?{google:RLZ}{google:acceptedSuggestion}{google:originalQueryForSuggestion}sourceid=chrome&ie={inputEncoding}&q=%s

It immediately highlights it as a default search engine option, and then you can make it the Default. HOORAY

I would try deleting the plist for the menu bar extra's, or drag to the desktop

com.apple.systemuiserver.plist

Found here:

user/Library/Preferences/com.apple.systemuiserver.plist
then restart your computer.

TechTool Pro - microformat.com
Drive Geniues - prosofteng.com
Disk Warrior - allsoft.com

There is really no need for 3rd party fan control

it's in a hidden folder called "recycler"

As you know, the Finder hides the standard Unix files and folders from you. You can "Go To Folder..." and type in the name of the folder such as /var/log, but that's fiddly and you still don't see the "dot" files, so for any serious session, it's probably easier to drop into Terminal. Except, there's a terminal command that will make all files and folders display in your Finder. defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles -bool true et voila

shark folder is a legit folder

flexnet publisher

While Circuit City focused on cutting costs, Amazon.com focused on delivering goods as conveniently as possible.

Autonomy is key. Educators can initiate, curate, and guide. But meaningful learning requires learner-driven activity.

pay attention to your process

I use manual focus and rock myself slightly back and forth until the eyes are sharp and then take the picture. My big piece of advice for shallow depth of field portraits is to shoot a lot more frames than would normally do

Eject + Power button boots up dead MacBook unibody (cannot wont start problem)

Hi Chiemela,

First of all, try holding down either the eject button or the trackpad or mouse button while starting up instead of Command E.

Secondly, when you say it "goes back into the drive" do you mean it appears and then disappears? What happens if you simply yank it out when it starts to emerge?

Cheers

Rod

reformatting the disk did not also change the partition map scheme. Well, the setting for this is hidden in an Options dialog in Disk Utility’s Partition tab, and I never went there when I reformatted the drive. I just clicked on the Erase tab, selected Mac OS Extended (Journaled) as the volume format, entered a volume name, and clicked Erase. This apparently does not change the disks partition map scheme.