We’re accustomed to planned obsolescence. New models come out every year—faster, shinier and just plain better. But before the iPhone, cell phones without user-replaceable batteries were almost unheard of. Apple realized that they could sell more phones if they built the phone with an integrated battery, prompting users to upgrade once the battery wore down. A phone isn’t very useful once you can’t take it away from the charger for more than an hour—which is guaranteed to happen with every iPhone. We’ve written extensively about Lithium-Ion batteries in the past—they’re wonderful technology, but they have a finite life of 300 to 500 cycles. If you’re like me and use up your battery completely every day, it’ll only last a year or so. (When I travel, I have to charge my phone at least twice a day.) Once the battery is worn down, it needs to be replaced—just like the light bulb in your refrigerator or the air filter in your car. Until the iPhone, all consumer product designs included a way to replace consumables. Apple’s consumer-hostile approach has turned product design on its head.

Charges are cumulative, and you do not have to completely discharge the battery every cycle.

Imagine if rather than shipping inkjet printers with replaceable ink cartridges, HP forced you to buy a new printer every 400 pages. Or if Ford told you to buy a new car after 40,000 miles rather than replacing the brake pads! We would never tolerate such wasteful engineering—and yet somehow Apple has suckered us all into an involuntary annual upgrade cycle.

Apple defends themselves by claiming that you can always pay them to replace the battery. That’s true—it’s $85.95, takes a week, and Apple will erase your phone’s memory during the procedure. That’s the only way. There are no other officially sanctioned options—Apple refuses to authorize any independent iPhone battery replacement centers. Their onerous replacement procedure is intentionally expensive, because they don’t want you to replace the battery. Apple wants you to buy a new phone—but if you insist on doubling its lifespan by replacing your battery, they want to make some money in the process. Never mind that iPhone batteries retail for just $20, and cost Apple far less than that.

Exploded view of the iPhone 4, battery highlighted in red

Users have two options: buy a new phone every year or so, or pay Apple $85.95 every year or so. Apple wins either way. They’re not selling us phones—they’re leasing them to us!

This isn’t just planned obsolescence—this is planned failure. Apple is making billions by selling us hardware with a built-in death clock. It is designed to fail after 400 cycles, conveniently coordinated with their annual hardware release cycle. Dead, hard to replace battery every year. New iPhone every year.

The current iPod Shuffle is the worst example of this. Replacing the battery is almost impossible—in our teardown last fall, the new Shuffle earned the worst repairability score we’ve ever given . This is the first product Apple has ever shipped where their price for battery replacement ($49 + $6.95 shipping) is higher than the retail price of the product ($49, free shipping)! Apple has clearly given up on replacing batteries and is just shipping people a replacement. The Shuffle’s intended design life is exactly the same as its battery, with no hope for extending it.

While the environmental and human consequences of this business strategy are dire, the financial impact is also substantial. This policy helped Apple make six billion dollars in just the last three months.

Replacing iPhone batteries for fun, profit, and to stick it to the man

Fortunately, there’s a way to opt out of the annual hardware replacement cycle: replace your own battery. We’ve put everything in one place to make it as easy as possible—we have step-by-step replacement guides (original, 3G, 3GS, 4), tools, and batteries. Replacing your own battery saves you money, keeps expensive hardware from going to the landfill prematurely, and sends a message to manufacturers that you will not tolerate design for failure.

Apple sees self-replacement as a threat, and they are working on making it harder to open your own phone. That’s a battle that the iFixit community is prepared to fight.

Solid-state drives (SSDs) have grown popular in recent years for the impressive speed increases your system gains using them. To get the most from your SSD, however, you can (and should) do a few things differently.
Photo by Karl Baron.

Upgrading your regular old hard drive to a solid-state drive is one of the best upgrades you can make to your computer nowadays, as our hard drives tend to be among the biggest bottlenecks in performance. SSD read times are insanely fast, meaning using one will make your boot times and application launches super short. One of the most publicized downsides of SSDs is that they have limited number of writes before they wear out—however, with most newer SSDs, this isn't actually a problem. Most modern SSDs will become outdated before they die, and you'll probably have upgraded by then, so there's not really a huge need to worry about writing to the drive too many times. That said, there are still a number of tweaks you can make to your system to account for the idiosyncrasies of solid-state drives.

This guide assumes you're using Windows (apart from a few general tips that can apply to all OSes), and also assumes you're using one of the newer SSDs that isn't subject to a super low number of writes or horrible write times. If you are using an older SSD, do a bit of research to see if there are any other tweaks you should make to your system.

Store Media and Other Personal Files on Another Drive


One of the main strategies in SSD usage is to use the SSD only for system files and applications. This will give you all the perks of fast boot times and application launches, but you won't fill up your drive as fast. SSDs are expensive, and there's no reason to break the bank for a large one—instead, just buy a small one for your OS files and buy a regular, magnetic drive (any size you want; they're pretty cheap nowadays) for your music, movies, and documents.

I understand this isn't possible for everyone. Desktop users should absolutely do this, but while some laptop users may be able to mod their laptop to contain two drives, some may prefer not to (and netbook users just plain can't). Thus, I'll point out in this guide where the tip only applies to one of these camps, and if the other camp should do anything differently.

To change where your files are stored automatically, you just need to edit the location of your user folder. We've already discussed how to do this in Windows 7, Windows XP, and Mac OS X. Linux distributions may vary, but in Ubuntu, you just need to go to System > Administration > Users and Groups, hit Advanced Settings, and change your home directory under the Advanced tab to a folder on your magnetic drive.

Use Windows 7


Windows 7 has a lot of important features that will help your SSD, such as the TRIM command, disabling defragmentation, and disabling Superfetch. If you're still using XP or Vista, I recommend upgrading, as some of these are not supported in versions before 7. Furthermore, if you have an SSD, Windows 7 will make a lot of these adjustments automatically, so you don't need to worry about them. If you've been using XP up until now (or upgraded from XP to Vista without doing a clean install), you'll want to do a clean install of Windows, as it will fix your partition alignment, thus greatly increasing performance.

If you absolutely must continue using Windows XP, however, you'll need to fix your partition alignment manually (note that you'll still have to do a clean install). This is one of the most important performance tweaks if you're using an SSD, as an incorrect alignment (such as XP's default) can severely reduce the speed of your dirve. There is a good guide over at the OCZ Forum that details the necessary steps. Note that you can run diskpart from a Vista or Windows 7 installation disc, too, if you'd prefer to do that instead of running it from a separate computer.—just use the same settings described in that guide. Of course, you'll want to back up all your data before doing this, and then restore it after you've reinstalled Windows. The main fix is fixing the physical alignment of the partition; it has nothing to do with the actual data itself.

Use Hibernation Instead of Sleep


Using hibernation is especially useful on laptops when you're trying to conserve battery life. When you sleep a computer, it saves your state to the RAM, but when you hibernate, it saves your state to the hard drive, thus using less power while "asleep". Usually, this means it takes a bit longer to start back up, but with an SSD in your system, it should wake up fairly quickly, so the big downside of hibernation isn't as much of an issue.

On Windows, you may need to enable hibernation to customize when your computer uses it. To do so, open up Command Prompt as an administrator ((by right clicking on it) and type powercfg /hibernate on. Then, open up the start menu and type in "power options" and hit enter. Click the link on the left that says "Change when the computer sleeps" and then hit "Change advanced power settings". If you expand the Sleep setting, you can edit when your computer sleeps as opposed to hibernates. Also, turning off "Allow hybrid sleep" will let you choose Hibernate from the start menu if you'd like to be able to do it manually. On a Mac, you'll need an app like SmartSleep to customize sleep and hibernation preferences.



Note, however, that if you are running out of space on your SSD, you'll actually want to do the opposite and turn hibernation off, since it creates a file on your hard drive that takes up as much space as the amount of RAM in your system. To disable hibernation completely, just run the above command but with "off" in place of "on". For the most part, though, if you followed the first tip in this guide, you should have plenty of room to spare for the hibernation file.

Disable Disk Defragmentation (XP and Vista)
On a magnetic drive, defragmentation organizes your drive in a way that data sectors are close to one another to improve performance. However, on Solid State Drives, having the data close together makes no difference, since SSDs can access data at the same speed no matter where it is. Thus, you don't need to defragment your SSD, and you can probably increase performance by turning it off.

To do so, head into your Start menu, right click on the Computer icon, and hit Manage to enter Computer Management. Under Services and Applications > Services, right click on Disk Defragmenter and hit Properties. Change the Startup Type to Disabled and hit OK.



Note that you probably won't need to do this on Windows 7, since it is turned off automatically when you're using a solid-state drive.

Disable Indexing
Indexing your drive usually speeds up searching and makes your life a little easier. However, indexing is actually more trouble than it's worth on an SSD. Because it's constantly maintaining a database of the files on your system and their properties, it causes a lot of small writes, at which SSDs do not excel. Thankfully, SSDs do excel at reading, and thus your drive will be able to seek pretty quickly anyway, even without an index.

First, go to My Computer, right click on your SSD, and hit Properties. At the bottom of the window, uncheck "Allow Indexing Service to index this disk for fast file searching". To disable the indexing of file attributes, go back to the Services section of Computer Management (as described above), but this time, right click on Windows Search and hit Properties. Change the Startup Type to Disabled.



This is only really useful if you didn't follow the first tip in this article, and all your data is on the SSD. Since Windows, for the most part, only indexes your user folders, you do not gain the SSDs benefits if your user folder is on a magnetic drive. Thus, if you only have the SSD, disable indexing—if you have multiple drives, though, you might as well just leave it enabled.

Popular Tweaks That You Probably Don't Need
Despite the fact that Windows 7 automatically turns off Superfetch when using SSDs that can handle it, it isn't all that important since modern SSDs have a perfectly adequate lifespan. If you're using Windows Vista, you can try disabling Superfetch, but I will not cover it in this guide as it will more often than not decrease performance on your system (our friends over at The How-To Geek have a guide for disabling it, however).



Similarly, disabling write caching and the page file are often counted as good tips for SSD owners, but they're likely to cause more problems than they solve (or they just plain don't matter). However, if you are in the camp that is using just an SSD, tweaking the page file's size will help you save a some space on your drive. You can do this by going to the Start menu, right clicking on Computer, and hitting Properties. Hit the Advanced System Settings link on the left, hit the Setting button under Performance, and then hit the Advanced tab. Click the Change button and uncheck "Automatically manage paging file size for all drives" and set a custom size to something that more suits your space needs.


These are, of course, not the only tweaks you can make to your system, but they are some of the best ones that will help you get the most out of your SSD. There are always other things you can do to speed up your computer (for example, you can move your caches to a RAM disk), but they aren't all specific to SSDs and they aren't all perfect for everyone. So, if you have some of your favorite tweaks that we haven't featured here, be sure to share them in the comments.

Identify all kinds of hardware with this terrific photo chart.