It's come a long way from the tables at 1980s dinner parties. Do you like your ratatouille soft and jammy, or fresh-tasting and crunchy?

It seems fitting, in the year that celebrates 60 years since the publication of Elizabeth David's A Book of Mediterranean Food, to offer a classic that she helped bring to our notice.This little stew of onions, tomatoes and sweet peppers appeared in more than one of her books. According to the area and whim of the cook, it can also contain potatoes, black olives and garlic. ED uses none of these. (Marcella Hazan adds potatoes.)

When it comes to hot sauce, our photographer, Chris Rochelle, likes it fiery. For the faint of heart, we suggest using his sauce as a light seasoning in things like chili, tacos, eggs, hummus, and curry. A little goes a long way.

Stuffed peppers are so easy that I'm going to give you a wing-it recipe. Substitute at will. Nice additions might be finely chopped raisins, olives, capers, hard-boiled eggs, grated zucchini, or cheese.